The GB

Sailboat Country

The Chesapeake. Unlike most bodies of water, like New York Harbor, or San Fransisco Bay, its always the Chesapeake Bay. At least for locals.

For me, its the best sailing on my voyage since the west coast of Florida. And its the first place Ive been where there are more sailboats than power boats. Lots more!

And thats no accident. When the Earths Architect had finished with the construction of North America, he/she suddenly realized there just werent enough good places to sail. This was 35 million years before sailors or sailboats, of course, but the Architect was thinking ahead, so he/she flung a giant meteor down into the middle of the east coast and -- whammo -- the Chesapeake was dug.

The method may have been a bit flashy, but you sure cant argue with the results: a sailors paradise.

Creator of the Chesapeake... Faster than a flying power boat! photo wikimedia

But between the ICW and Paradise is one of the most intimidating places Ive ever sailed through: the busy port of Norfolk, VA. This is a major port for the US Navy, and the poor cruiser -- who just wants to get through it without getting squashed by hurrying, steel leviathans -- is treated to a show right out of Fleet Week.

photos jalmberg

As I was taking these photos -- while dodging tugs, barges, and patrol boats, none of whom seemed to take the slightest notice of the Blue Moon -- I was wishing I had my late Uncle Frank on board to explain what I was looking at.

Commander Francis Almberg, USN, that is. He spent a lot of time in Norfolk and was an integral part of this hive of naval activity. I only wish Id been smart enough to ask the right questions while he was still with us. Opportunities squandered...

As big as the ships are, the channel that runs through Norfolk is relatively narrow and twisty and spanned by innumerable bridges that open on a VERY restricted schedule. It takes some planning to get through these bridges without major delays. Luckily, Ive had lots of experience with bridges by now.

As I emerged safely into Hampton Roads, I figured Norfolk was good training for passing through New York Harbor. It might even have been tougher than the East River. Well see.

Hampton Roads is just a big harbor on the Chesapeake. Just the merest taste of what was too come. But it was a tumultuous taste. The wind was blowing hard from the north, as it had been for weeks. I ducked into a little harbor next to Ft. Monroe on the north side of Hampton Roads for the night.

A strong north wind would make it tough to sail up the long, broad Chesapeake. What were the chances that Id finally get a southerly breeze?

Only time would tell...

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